Personal Weapons Maintenance
#1

I went shooting with one of my sons today (his first time shooting the M1 Rifle :) ) and started to wonder about how often weapons were cleaned.

I know there are probably a ton of variables concerned, but how often did you guys clean your weapons? Was it a quick run through of a patch, or did you break it down and clean it whenever you had the chance?

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#2

Onaway: First thing you should know (and probably do know) is that all small arms ammo excepting the M-1 carbine were corrosive primed until after ww 2. Some lots were still corrosive primed late as 1954. In a day or two without cleaning , bad things happened to the bore (etc). In damp warm weather even quicker. Not to mention dust, dirt, muc and the likes. Your weapon condition was your "lifeline". Even though it may

not have been fired, cleaning was a must to keep it in working order also. For example, after firing a m-1 rifle one ran the bore cleaner through on a patch at least one or 2 patches.(the small can of bore cleaner could be held in a carridge belt pouch with patches plus a brass cleaning brush). Then the brass bore brush. Then a dry patch, then a oiled patch. This is just for the bore. The rest of the further cleaning depended on how much needed. The combination tool, jointed cleaning rod, oiler, plastic small jar of lubriplate, and what ever else one could fit in was in the buttstock trap door compartment.. Ones life depended on a working weapon. Same as any other small arms. Hope I have not gone into too much detail. By the way, bolt assemblies and

trigger housing assemblies were seldom taken apart in cleaning. I think that was above

our realm usually. Op rod tip and gas cylinder were stainles steel but usually also cleaned. when needed but did not corrode.

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#3

Now if you want to go back to another Century, the black powder rifles was even more corrosive. Cleaning them is a MUST.

When I shoot "black powder" today, I and most shooters use an artifical substitute called by the brand name Pyrodex. But I do recall a few years back when I used the real black powder. One incident that I recall was a day that I set my pistol or a cleaning patch or something with burnt black powder on the hood of my car. When I went back to retrieve it, I noticed a stain in the paint of my car that proved difficult to remove.

I had a revolver with several moving parts that I would hang on my wall on a rugged plaque that I made. When I finished shooting this BP revolver, I would clean it thoroughly and place it back on the wall mount. One day I removed it and the thing wouldn't cock at all. I had to disassemble it to get it to work. Luckily no serious rust damage was done.

The one thing that will accelerate corrosion in Black Powder as well as WW2 firearms is MOISTURE. If you shoot in a humid place like Mississippi or the jungles of New Guinea, then you will have a problem with corrosion. You have nothing to worry about if you live in Arizona. I take personal pride that my BP guns have no rust on them, especially around the barrel where the hammer strikes the ignitor cap and produces alot of hot residue when it fires the weapon(for percussian BP guns).

Luckily with the improvement of less corrosive powders there has been an improvement in corrosion inhibitors. Some say to use WD-40. That is good for when you need a quick protection in the field or if you can't clean the gun right away. But the way I've heard it explained is that WD-40 displaces water, meaning it may just move it deeper in a crevice or bore. Personally, I try to obtain corrosion inhibitors that we use for our aircraft, such as LPS-3 ( http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp ). I also use a good oil with a teflon lubricant additive.

 

Since this was your first time shooting, I would check to see what type of ammo you were using. As noted, any WW2 surplus ammo but may contain corrosive powder. Another thing to think about is the material of the bullet. Most military ammo was steel jacketed. Modern hunting rounds are usually copper/bronze jackets but many people re-load their ammo using Lead bullets(usually bolt-action rifles). The lead will leave micro-pieces imbedded in any pits as it slides down the barrel and also corrode the barrel. Even if you use copper jackets, it can catch in the barrell and allow moisture to collect under it. Swabbing the barrel to remove the burnt powder is not enough. That is why most modern guns should be cleaned with a lead solvent ( http://www.gunaccessories.com/Hoppes/Solve...Lubricating.asp ). I don't worry about that with my Black Powder rifles because the lead ball is held by a cloth or plastic sabot.

 

Hope that scares you into taking good care of your investment.

 

Steve

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#4
Yup, one always had something to do, "Clean Your Piece" AL
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#5

Excellent info people.

Custerman, it was my sons first time shooting the M1. I have actually been shooting for quite a while. All milsurps, so I learned about corrosive ammo early on.

My rule of thumb is trat all ammo as if it is corrosive. Part of the fun for me is cleaning it up when I get home from the range.

One thing that I do that has proved wuite effective in inhibiting rust and keeping the bore shiny is giving the warm barrel a squirt or two of Windex with ammonia, and letting it run down the bore. I dry the outside off and clean it up good with Hoppes No 9 when I get home. The ammonia neutralises the corrosive elements of the rounds.

All of my rifles' bores look better than the day I bought them, due to my diligence.

 

I got to pondering my original question, as I said, after shooting the other day. I was thinking about grandpa, and the fact that his unit was on the move at a rapid pace during the last months of the war. I guess they took every opportunity to grab a bite to eat, and keep the equipment functioning properly.

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#6

Great to hear.

 

Yeah. That is a good Q to ponder. I just read "Flags of Our Fathers" and you really wonder if they took time during that 35 days of combat to stop and clean their rifles. Between dodging bullets and fighting fatigue, not to mention being constantly on the guard for a lone Banzai attacker, I don't think they would have time.

 

Steve

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#7

I went shooting with one of my sons today (his first time shooting the M1 Rifle :) ) and started to wonder about how often weapons were cleaned.

I know there are probably a ton of variables concerned, but how often did you guys clean your weapons? Was it a quick run through of a patch, or did you break it down and clean it whenever you had the chance?

I think I speak for the guys in the LINE COMPANYS, We gave them a lick and a promise but when we were pulled off the line, first,a bath, turned in our DIRTY,Muddy cloths, shaved had a good meal then we settled down and cleaned our weapons and ammo. If we happened to be close to a town, we took a couple of cans of c-rations, cigs. when we came back we had smiling faces. Yes we carried a cord with some patches to bore clean our weapons. Roque

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#8

Great to hear.

 

Yeah. That is a good Q to ponder. I just read "Flags of Our Fathers" and you really wonder if they took time during that 35 days of combat to stop and clean their rifles. Between dodging bullets and fighting fatigue, not to mention being constantly on the guard for a lone Banzai attacker, I don't think they would have time.

 

Steve

Flags of Our Fathers is just a book, "" Dogfaces Who Smiled Through Tears"", that's HISTORY. 600+ days of combat. REDBULL

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#9

Custerman: Must admit that black powder is corrosive. However during WW 2 it was not the powder that was corrosive. Quote: "Since this was your first time shooting, I would check to see what type of ammo you were using. As noted, any WW2 surplus ammo but may contain corrosive powder. Another thing to think about is the material of the bullet. Most military ammo was steel jacketed."". Actualy it was the primer only that was corrosive. The only U.S.G.I. cartridge not corrosively primed was he .30 cal

M-1 carbine cartridge in WW 2 (with possibly some .38's). Most of the bullets were not steel jaceted but cupro nickel or copper clad lead. Even the Armor peicing ammo was so clad with the tungsten nickle insert for going through armor. (from tThe U.S.G.I.he 30-06 up to the .50 cal MG). Same as the tracer, it too was copper jacketed. I am talking about the U.S. ammo in WW 2. Corrosive priming for U.S.G.I. stopped in the

mid 1950's, some sooner on certain manufacturers and lots. (usually about 1954 or earlier. I have a list of when and what if interested.

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#10

I'd be interested to see that list.

I am getting ready to order some 30.06 from the CMP, so all the info I can get would be helpful.

Plus it would be just plain interesting...

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